Scotland

Is this what climbing in Scotland is like? Matt McCormick one of the many first pitch variations to Omega. Cannon Cliff, New Hampshire.

I just checked the weather for Aviemore, Scotland, the closest town to the Glenmore Lodge in the Cairngroms, and the forecast is for an 85-100% chance of rain every day next week. Apparently, that’s a good thing, and I’m hoping so, cause I’m flying out tonight on a red-eye through Reykjavik.

The British Mountaineering Council is hosting members of the alpine clubs of 35 different countries on their home turf. Scott Fife of Ohio and I are representing the American Alpine Club at this year’s climber’s meet. Thanks AAC! I’ve been doing my pull-ups, and after spending last weekend at the Adirondack International Mountain Fest, I am in good shape for late night drinking and long days of climbing. Should be good.

Malcolm Churches on the first pitch of Crystal Ice Tower, Chapel Pond, Adirondacks

As usual the folks over in Keene Valley threw one hell of a party. Zoe Hart gave a great slideshow Friday night. Saturday was my turn, actually our turn, Matt McCormick and I tagged teamed a show made up of a short videos and stills from routes we’ve done, and routes others have done around the Northeast. I didn’t see anyone falling asleep, but it was a dark room… The clinics seemed to be all full and, as usual, the psyche for winter climbing was super high – one of my favorite parts about the Adirondack community. Emily Drinkwater got up on Sunday night and cracked everyone up with a slideshow about her recent trip to Kashmir. I stopped by the Bivi to pay my respects to Joe Szot, and he graciously kicked my ass in a rollie-off. (If you don’t know what rollies are, click here.)

Been trying to bob and weave around the conditions, and getting some climbing in where I can, here are a few shots from so far this winter.

Kevin Mahoney taking a whack at Something About You Makes Me Wild, an M8 trad route, in desperate conditions. The Hanging Gardens, Frankenstein.

Matt McCormick on the Snotcicle in Smuggs.

Elliot Gaddy taking a victory lap after sending a new M8, Mustard Tiger, in New Hampshire